Note: I wrote this post in April 2018 for the Chattanooga Modern Quilt Guild. That group is now defunct, so I’m sharing the content here for posterity.

Want to design a minimalist quilt? Editing an idea down to its simplest form can be a tricky endeavor. One strategy that may help is to limit the number of seams used during construction. That's easy enough if you're working with straight lines or flowing curves, but what about designs that call for pointy, angular shapes?

Enter quilt artist Ruth McDowell. She started quilting in the 1970s, and many of her works cause quilters to wonder, "How did she piece that?!" Ruth describes her process in several books, which I highly recommend. In Piecing: Expanding the Basics, she explains how to sew a Z-seam. You've probably heard of a Y-seam, and a Z-seam applies the same principles.

*Ruth McDowell’s book “Piecing: Expanding the Basics” is a great resource.*

Following Ruth's instructions, I tackled the Z-seam and brought several examples to ChattMQG’s April 2018 meeting for a presentation on designing minimalist quilts. Follow these steps to sew your own at home.

Some Helpful Hints Before You Begin

Make templates to cut your shapes and don't forget to add the seam allowances
Use matching thread
Shorten your stitch length

Step 1: Mark seam allowances

Do this on the wrong side (WS) of both pieces of fabric. There are four points in a Z-seam (A, B, C and D), and it helps to mark the entire length of the seam allowance to determine those intersections.

Step 2: Use a pin to align points A & B

Before you sew, you want to align the two pieces of fabric at points A and B, right sides together. Use a pin for accuracy.

*STEP 2: Use a pin to align points A and B.*

Step 3: Sew from point A to point B

When sewing Z-seams, you always want to place the piece of fabric with the concave angle on top. (In this example, that means the pink fabric will be on top when sewing from point A to point B, and from point B to point C.) Sew from point A to point B, making sure your needle falls directly into the intersection of the seam allowances at point B. Leave the needle down.

Step 4: Clip, pivot, and align points C

With your needle down, lift your presser foot and clip the concave angle of the top fabric at point B. Pivot your work and align the two pieces of fabric at point C, using a pin for accuracy.

*STEP 4: At your machine, clip the concave angle of the top fabric (pink) and pivot. Then align points C.*

Step 5: Sew from point B to point C

When you reach point C, backstitch to secure your stitching and then remove your work from the sewing machine.

Step 6: Flip your work and align points D

Because the concave angle at point C is on the bottom piece of fabric (the white in this example), you need to flip your work over to continue. Clip the concave angle before you sew, and align the two pieces of fabric at point D. Use a pin for accuracy.

*STEP 6: Remove your work from the sewing machine, flip, and align points D.*

Step 7: Sew from point C to point D

Place the needle directly in the intersection at point C, exactly where you ended your stitching before you flipped your fabric. Sew a few stitches, backstitch to secure them, and then continue to the edge of the fabric just past point D. Backstitch and remove your work from the sewing machine.

Step 8: Press seams

You can press to one side or press open, either will work. If you want to press your seams open, you'll need to clip the points.

*STEP 8: To press seams open, clip the points.*

Ta-dah! You did it!

Sewing a Z-seam is a useful skill that may take time to master. Give yourself a few practice runs to determine whether you need to make any changes for your particular construction needs.

[July 2024 update: Ruth McDowell passed away last month. Her career as a quilter lasted nearly 50 years—what a legacy! Learn more about Ruth’s life here.]

From the Archives: How to Sew Z-Seams